30 June 2016
Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermengildo Zegna, made his debut for the brand with the 2017/2018 men’s winter collection. Sartori has already served as Z Zegna and Berluti’s artistic director, and since 2016, creative director of Zegna’s various brands. Sartori created a contemporary collection that focuses on a blending of artisan processes and technology. Traditional fabrics, including Casentino felt, were made into ultra-lightweight cashmere, while distorted, hand-stitched geometric jacquard breathes new life into classic patterns. The tanned wax process gives the leather pieces an impalpable, waterproof quality. The soft silhouettes are defined by strong shoulders; the coats are given shape by drawstrings, and rubber zippers close tailored outerwear. The palette ranges from white and light grey to wine, peacock green and blue.